October 1, 2026
For three weeks every fall, the same half-mile stretch of Wilco Road east of Empire does two jobs that have nothing to do with each other. On September 19 it was a racecourse, timed and flagged under Sports Car Club of America rules, with more than 1,000 spectators lining the hillside to watch cars climb it. By the second week of October, once the color finally arrives, that same gravel shoulder becomes the parking pull-off for the trailhead everyone uses to reach Empire Bluff. Nobody planned it that way. It's just what happens when a town's three biggest fall draws land in a sequence that has almost nothing to do with when the leaves actually turn.
The Empire Hill Climb wrapped its eighth consecutive season on Wilco Road last weekend. The Sleeping Bear Marathon, Half Marathon and 5K runs a week from this Saturday, October 3. The Platte River's Chinook salmon are still pushing through the shallows south of town, a run that started in September and continues into early October. And peak fall color at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, the thing most people associate with an Empire autumn, won't show up until well after all three of those things are finished.
The Hill Climb has run on Wilco Road since it was revived eight years ago, and this year's course covered about three-quarters of a mile with eight turns. Friday afternoon brought a Parc Exposé downtown, where competitors parked their cars along Front Street so spectators could look them over before race day. Saturday was the racing itself, split into five classes that ran from small-displacement production cars up through unrestricted vintage entries, plus a drift category judged separately. Misers' Hoard owner Paul Skinner sponsored this year's event, a role he's held for much of the race's modern run.
Leelanau News put attendance at more than 1,000 spectators, a number worth sitting with for a road that on an ordinary Tuesday might see a few dozen cars pass in either direction. That crowd found its own seating on the natural hillside above the course, the same slope that in a few weeks will be dotted with hikers heading the other direction toward the bluff overlook.
The Sleeping Bear Marathon and Half Marathon both start at the Dune Climb, the 5K starts separately at Empire Beach, and all three finish together in the village on Lake Michigan. Part of the half marathon's distance runs along the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail, the paved multiuse path that connects Empire to Glen Arbor. The full course is USATF certified, which means some runners are out there chasing a Boston qualifying time rather than a scenic morning, though the organizers lean into the scenery too: the race is timed for peak fall color season along the shoreline.
That timing is a little optimistic. The marathon runs October 3, and Sleeping Bear's peak color typically doesn't arrive until mid-to-late October. The race gets the tail end of green more often than it gets the postcard.
Where the Hill Climb closes Wilco Road outright for two days, the marathon works differently. It draws a morning crowd downtown and along the Dune Climb corridor, then clears by afternoon, closer to a one-day surge than a weekend-long road closure.
A few practical notes for the stretch between now and race day:
The Platte River runs through the southern end of the national lakeshore, and its salmon run happens in two waves. Coho run from mid-August through the end of September. Chinook follow, typically from September through early October, which means they're still moving through the shallow current at Platte River Point on the same weekend as the marathon and for some days after. Watching them requires no license, just a spot along the bank.
It's a run that overlaps with the Hill Climb, runs past it, and is still going when the marathon starts. Three fall draws, three different calendars, one of which is entirely indifferent to what the other two are doing.
Lake Michigan slows everything down. Peak fall color at Sleeping Bear typically lands one to two weeks later than inland Michigan because the lake holds its summer warmth into fall and delays the temperature drop that triggers leaf change along the shoreline. The interior forest sections, places like Alligator Hill, tend to turn earlier than the open dune-edge stretches closer to the water. That means the Hill Climb happened on green hillsides, the marathon will likely catch the start of a turn rather than the peak, and the actual show doesn't arrive until closer to the back half of October.
When it does, the highest-rated hike in the park by a wide margin is the Empire Bluff Trail, a 1.5-mile round trip through gradual forest to a boardwalk overlook above Lake Michigan. Its trailhead sits off Wilco Road, about a mile east of the village, close enough to the Hill Climb course that the same shoulder used for race-day spectating becomes trailhead parking once the color actually peaks.
The Empire Area Museum's Heritage Day has historically landed on the second Saturday in October, which puts it around October 10 this year, filling in the next slot on the calendar once color starts to take hold. The sequence by then runs cars, runners, fish, then finally the reason most people think of when they picture fall here.
None of these four things wait for each other. The road that hosted 1,000 spectators for race cars a week ago will host a different kind of crowd once the leaves turn, arriving on foot instead of parking along a hillside. The marathon runs before the postcard version of the season shows up. The salmon don't check a calendar. Wilco Road just happens to be the one place where you can watch the whole sequence play out on the same quarter-mile of gravel, first as a racecourse, then as a trailhead.
If you're the kind of person who tracks a town by its calendar rather than its listings, this one is worth knowing before it repeats next fall. Michigan LifeStyle Homes spends enough time in Leelanau County to know which roads do double duty and when, and Angela DiLorenzo is always glad to talk through what a particular stretch of shoreline or bluff actually looks like across a full season, not just on race day.
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